Every stage of
the drywall job.
Framing through final coat. One contractor, one accountable crew, one quality standard from the studs out to the paint-ready surface.
Steel & wood
framing.
The job every other trade ends up working against. We get it right the first time.
Residential & light-commercial framing
Wood stud framing for residential partitions, basement walls, bulkheads, and custom features. Pressure-treated bottom plates where they contact concrete, proper blocking for cabinets and grab bars, and straight, plumb walls that your trim carpenter won't have to fight with later.
Steel stud framing
25-, 20-, and 18-gauge steel stud framing for commercial partitions, demising walls, shaft walls, and bulkheads. Deflection tracks at slab-to-deck conditions, proper bracing, and full coordination with mechanical, electrical, and sprinkler rough-ins.
What's included
- Layout, plates, studs, headers, and blocking.
- Openings for doors, windows, and pass-throughs.
- Coordination with MEP trades before boarding.
- Backing for cabinets, TVs, handrails, and fixtures.
Drywall
boarding.
The board you don't see is the board that matters — picking the right type for the space.
Standard drywall
1/2" regular gypsum board for most interior walls and 5/8" for ceilings to prevent sag. Tight butt joints, staggered seams, screws set just below the paper without breaking it.
Moisture-resistant board
Green board or purple-paper moisture-resistant drywall for bathrooms, laundry rooms, and basements. Proper backer boards in wet zones where tile is going up.
Type X fire-rated
5/8" Type X fire-rated board where code requires it — common walls between units, garage-to-house walls, utility rooms, and commercial corridor partitions.
Specialty board
QuietRock and other sound-dampening board for home theatres, nurseries, recording spaces, and multi-tenant assemblies. Flex board for tight radius curves, abuse-resistant board for high-traffic commercial corridors.
- Board sized and oriented to minimize seams.
- Fasteners at proper spacing and depth.
- Control joints where runs exceed 30 ft.
- Clean cutouts around boxes, registers, and fixtures.
Taping &
mudding.
Three coats, progressive sanding, feathered wide enough that light won't find the seam.
Three-coat process
Tape coat with setting-type or premixed joint compound, second (fill) coat feathered out to soften the transition, and final (skim) coat taken wider still before progressive sanding. We sand with dust-reducing tools and vacuum-attached sanders — the air in your house isn't supposed to taste like gypsum.
Level 4 finish — our baseline
Our default finish standard. Joints, corners, and fasteners covered with three coats of compound, sanded smooth, and ready for primer and most flat or eggshell paint finishes.
Level 5 finish — on request
A full skim coat across the entire surface for an even paper-paint transition. The right call for rooms with south-facing windows, raking light conditions, gloss or semi-gloss paints, and gallery walls where no imperfection should telegraph through.
Corners & transitions
Paper tape on flats and metal or vinyl corner bead on outside corners, depending on the condition. Tear-away beads at ceiling and window transitions where we want a clean reveal.
Drywall
repair.
Small problems, large problems, and the ones that "shouldn't be a big deal" but always are.
Common repairs
- Cracks from settlement at door frames, corners, and ceiling transitions.
- Nail pops from seasonal movement.
- Holes from doorknobs, furniture, moving day.
- Water-damaged drywall and ceilings after a leak.
- Seam telegraphing from poor original finishing.
- Post-electrical, post-plumbing, and post-HVAC patching.
Texture matching
If the surrounding wall has a texture — knockdown, orange peel, stipple, or a smooth finish with a particular sheen — we match it so the repair disappears. Most of our repair calls fail the "find the patch" test within a few weeks. Ours don't.
Water damage
We cut out affected board, check the framing behind it for moisture, confirm the leak has been properly addressed, allow the cavity to dry, and rebuild with moisture-resistant board where appropriate. If there's any chance of mould, we pause and get the right remediation partner in before we close the wall up.
Texture &
finish.
Flat, orange peel, knockdown, stipple, or specialty — whatever the design drawings call for.
Smooth / Level 5
The cleanest finish we offer. A full skim coat applied across the whole surface, sanded dead flat, ready for primer.
Orange peel
A subtle sprayed texture that hides minor imperfections and holds up well in high-traffic areas. Common in newer homes and rental units.
Knockdown
Sprayed and then flattened with a knockdown knife for a mottled, softer look. Good middle ground between hiding imperfections and keeping a contemporary appearance.
Stipple & California-style
Heavier, more textured finishes for rooms where the pattern is meant to be part of the character. Also used for popcorn ceiling replacements where the homeowner wants to match an older home.
Popcorn ceiling removal
Scraping, skim-coating, sanding, and priming to deliver a flat ceiling ready for paint. Dust-contained work zones, floor protection, and a thorough clean-up at the end.
Ceilings &
bulkheads.
Where drywall gets architectural — and where clean lines matter most.
Flat ceilings
5/8" board installed perpendicular to joists, screwed off at proper spacing, taped and mudded to a Level 4 or Level 5 finish. Control joints added on long runs so seasonal movement doesn't crack the finish.
Tray & coffered ceilings
Built up in stages with proper backing, radiused or sharp corners depending on the design, and clean reveals at the transitions. We work closely with the trim carpenter when there's moulding involved.
Bulkheads & soffits
Kitchen bulkheads to conceal HVAC runs, basement bulkheads for pipes, perimeter soffits for indirect lighting. Framed true and finished with crisp corners.
Curved & custom
Radius walls and arched openings built with flex board or scored standard board, skimmed into a continuous curve that doesn't "facet" under directional light.
Soundproofing.
Quieter walls, by design — not by marketing.
Assemblies we build
- Resilient channel with standard or Type X board.
- Double-layer drywall with Green Glue damping compound.
- Staggered-stud and double-stud wall assemblies.
- QuietRock sound-dampening board installations.
- Acoustic sealant at all perimeter edges and penetrations.
Where it matters
Home theatres, shared walls in semi-detached homes, nurseries next to mechanical rooms, podcast and recording spaces, condo demising walls, and commercial meeting rooms. The details — sealant at bottom plates, back-to-back outlet offsets, door gaskets — matter more than any single product.
Insulation.
Thermal and acoustic batts installed cleanly before the walls go up.
Batt insulation
Pink fibreglass and mineral wool batts installed with a proper friction fit — no gaps, no compression, no tuckered-in corners that create cold spots.
Mineral wool for sound & fire
Rockwool and equivalent mineral wool products for interior sound-dampening and fire-resistant assemblies. Denser than fibreglass, better acoustic performance, and code-compliant for the ratings that call for it.
Vapour barriers & air sealing
Poly vapour barrier detailed at top and bottom plates, around electrical boxes, and at penetrations. Acoustical sealant where the code requires an air seal. Done before the board goes up, not as an afterthought.
Tell us what you're building — we'll scope the rest.
Share a few photos, a rough timeline, and whether you have drawings. We'll come out, walk the space, and send a written quote within a few business days.